Barnacle-bound in Cartagena

A dirty little secret of Cartagena is the foulness of the water in the harbor; not (generally) in the oily, trashy sense, but in being a ‘hot’ primordial broth of barnacle larvae, and barnacle food (zooplankton and algae). We’ve been here for 47 days,  came with a fresh clean bottom painted in November, and now look:

barnacles closer

In the first two weeks we wondered what the fuss was about. In the third week things began to happen, but were easy to dismiss. In the fourth week we began to get alarmed.

As the barnacles grew we could actually hear the changes. Wavelets striking the side began to make a sleety, sizzley sound, like surf departing a rocky beach. Drainage thru the galley sink slowed, and the marine toilet began making sucking noises thru the sink.
We had coated the prop and shaft with lanolin, but that wasn’t working any more (if it ever had), as we found when we had to actually move the boat. How the ships of yore ever managed to keep up with the problem I can’t imagine. Careening, and diving, are limited options and even rocket scientists haven’t succeeded at prevention.

 

P1020235 Alberto scraping the bottom

The mini-economy at the Club Nautico of Cartagena provided a local specialist to deal with the issue. You want your bottom cleaned? Alberto is the man. He came out to the boat in the anchorage with mask, fins, snorkel, 2 scrapers, and a screwdriver, no scuba tank. An hour or so later, the bottom was clean again.

 

Long-term residents of the Club Nautico and anchorage have Alberto do their bottoms every three weeks. Longer than that, he says, and the biggest barnacles get their teeth into the bottom paint; then they take the paint with them when they go. Use a scraper, (Alberto uses an 8-inch drywall blade, just as we do), not a brush, or after three or four times there will be no bottom paint left. To clean the anchor chain, don’t poke at every link or you’ll be there for hours. Rather, use the snubber to make a slack catenary* and rub handfuls of chain links with themselves to knock off the barnacles. The screwdriver is for the thru-hulls.

Over drinks at happy hour, someone commented that barnacles were attracted to places where barnacles had already been. The siren scent of barnacle balm? Intrigued by the thought  I looked it up, and of course it’s sort of true. There’s a hatching pheromone triggered by algal blooms which cause dormant eggs to be released to form free-swimming larvae. And there’s the dread ‘settlement pheromone’, which attracts other barnacles into the range of the ‘highly extensible’ pseudo-penis which every hermaphroditic barnacle possesses. Yes, one barnacle can reproduce itself, but usually the male stage comes first and roams the neighborhood.#160;

However, where there’s a pheromone, there’s the potential for a targeted anti-pheromone, and it appears that current barnacle-busting hopes are pinned to a chemical, medetomidine, that turns the settlement receptors into a‘don’t settle here’ sign. Barnacles do go where barnacles have been, because they like the surface, so other researchers are trying to design textured barnacle-repelling bottoms for ships. Charles Darwin wrote one of the definitive papers about barnacles, but because of the enormous economic implications for world shipping, there is still a lot of research in the area. Barnacles are positively charismatic compared to, say, Archaeocyatha, a fossilized, extinct tropical sponge. Maybe I’ve missed my calling, (again).

Barnacles are crustaceans, related to crabs and lobster, not mollusks. They attach with their antenna, using a ‘cement gland’ and stay put (sessile) for the rest of their lives, which can be 3-5 years. They gather passing nutrients with their feet. Had we cared to measure, we could have analyzed more stringently the nature of the harbor water; barnacles can serve as biomarkers because of the amounts of toxic metals they can absorb.

Had enough of barnacles? Me too! In fact, when I was maybe ten, a small red dinghy and I spent a miserable winter weekend together at the top end of a boat shed, with a three-cornered paint scraper and a sheet of sandpaper. My orders were to ‘make that bottom clean’. I’ve just met folks on another boat who pull up and scrub their anchor chain every three days. It’s a nuisance to be sure, but it’s better, and easier, than arguing with a barnacle.

Wikipedia, and The Environmental Physiology of Animals by Wilmer and Stone were consulted in this gross oversimplification of the life of barnacles. Another interesting website is http://www.fathom.com/feature/121900/index.html

*ten cents’ worth about the snubber: we anchor with chain; it’s strong, but hasn’t much ‘give’ to it. So we tie or hook a shortish piece of stretchy line, a snubber, from the chain to the deck cleat, to ease some of the chain’s loading. Otherwise, when conditions get bouncy, the chain would want to yank the bow off the boat. The catenary is the curved bit of chain that hangs between the two fixed points. Handy to know, ‘cadena’ is chain in Spanish.

Saturday Night Out in Cartagena

You’d think we’d do this more often, being convenient to a nice part of a nice city, Cartagena, Colombia . But no, only now that we’re getting ready to leave do we venture forth for an entire evening on the town.
Here, the gathering for sunset-viewing atop the city wall. So much going on I forgot to look for the green flash, not that there would have been hope for one in this humidity.
image
That’s Patty and Tom and Doug, taking it all in. We later ate outside at the fancy restaurant on the square at San Pedro Claver, where we had front row seats to the comings and goings  for the 7 PM and 8:30 weddings at the cathedral just opposite, and some delicious dining too.

cartagena Saturday night 045cartagena Saturday night 070
The ‘inside’ (the restaurant!) experience looks pretty special too. Next time?
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Someone said I needed to have my picture in this blog occasionally, so my friend Tom did the honors.  One of the ‘Black Boys of Cartagena’  mimed his gratitude for my handful of coins. That’s one person who doesn’t need to be reminded to hold still for the picture.
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By the time we were thinking of dessert, the rest of the night-folk were just getting started.
cartagena Saturday night 083Tough choices – how about one of each?
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This post is an experiment with Windows Live Writer, writing offline and using pictures from an IPod Touch. I’ve gotten so backed up and behind with uploads and other technology problems in my old system that I need to try something new.

Also, we’ll be heading towards the San Blas soon, where there apparently is hardly any internet service, only sometimes email via the SSB radio, if I’ve added the recipient to my white list.
Maybe I’ll get some of the kinks worked out in the peace and quiet of a tropical anchorage!
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Pretty Soon: 5th Annual Chub Festival

Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMugPretty Soon:
that’s when the sign said that Fifth Annual Chub Fest was being held, three days forward from when we saw the sign.

Chub? The men on the street told us, is a kind of fish.
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Further enquiries revealed that the festival would take place at the boat house near the music school  (we don’t see many of those!) and happen all afternoon. Probably happen at night too, but not for us daylight-circadian bicyclists.

So the following Wednesday,  four of us pedaled our folding boat bikes back to the east side of the island. We were sitting in the TuttiFruti bar about midday having an ice-cold Costenita when we overheard a conversation about the start of the regatta down at Rolands Bar, estimated variously to be ‘near’ or ‘twenty minutes’ . The speaker was so enthusiastic that even the pedaller of the least bicycle among us agreed to check it out. He didn’t know about the big hill at the end, but by the time he found out it was too late.

The boats are CayMAN (with the emphasis on MAN) Cat Boats. They don’t fish, they don’t ‘yacht’, they only race. This day there was a significant (at least, in pesos, it sounded like a big number) cash prize.
Photo Cayman catboat
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We arrived just in time for the start, just off the beach. The course was a beat north behind the barrier reef, a circle around an offshore island and a run back to the boat house where the Chub Festival was held. As you can see it was a beautiful day, with fresh northeasterly trade winds.

Be forewarned: These are among my first videos from a little digital camera. I’m still working out a system for uploading. Any suggestions gratefully received. The longest video is under 2 minutes, and it seems you need to click on them and be taken to another site to watch. I left in some photos for those of you who, like me, don’t have the bandwidth or the time to actually see the videos. There’s plenty room for improvement here, but later.

The man in the pale blue shirt in the water is the official starter and race committee.
We trudged our way back up the hill. As we were doing so, one boat sank, and one withdrew from the race. Good thing they all had chase boats; the crew sometimes jumps ship mid-race to lighten the boat.



Back on the main road, at the first overlook we found ourselves in the middle of a rolling spectator fleet.
It was fun being part of the enthusiastic crowd.

We moved, with our dinky-ass little folding bikes swerving among the insouciant motorcyclists from overlook to overlook. My friend said she felt like she was running with the bulls at Pamplona. But my guess is that the bulls aren’t nearly as mellow as the folks in Providencia.

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A successful day for these men, even if they didn’t finish first.
Seems like the video is behaving badly; our skilled technicians will be on the case as soon as they figure out what to do.


The food part of the festival  was also a treat. Chub was served in several forms, ensalata, pernil, hamburguesa, au gratin, salpicon, sopa,  pie, and washed down with my new favorite beverage, tamarindo. It was like a big family picnic where each aunt had brought her famous specialty, although some didn’t have enough to sell.
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People here are proud of their old traditions, of which cooking fish on the beach is one,
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as pictured in this wall painting which decorates the trash depot. Other old-time (and current) traditions depicted include boat and horse racing, cockfighting, dancing, and traditional (washtub, mandolin, and for percussion, the jaw bone of a horse) music.

So, now you can see why we like Providencia.
The rest of the photo album, unedited, is here

http://galivant.smugmug.com/Other/Colombia/15304345_XtjnP/

Old Providence

PHOTO MORGANS CRACK
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Arriving in a new place is, for me, an almost sensual experience. If I had antennae, flared nostrils and whiskers, a flicking tongue, you’d see ’em all working. What I’ve got to work with is mostly visual, however (hence the camera?)

Coming in by boat, I like daybreak best. It’s beautiful, often calm, maybe the aids to navigation are still lit – the best of all possible worlds, and it’s all still fresh and new to all my receptors!

At Providencia’s nicely sheltered harbour, Doug went ashore to do the captain business, while I re-feathered the nest ( it involves lots of wiping and putting away; talk about routine! Only sometimes do we break the pink-blue barriers).

To enter Colombia, an agent is required; otherwise we’d both be tramping from office to office making the best of a sometimes uneven cultural experience. Here all we had to do was pay Mr. Bernardo Bush. Doug came home from the ATM with a fistful of pesos, denominations in the thousands(roughly 2000 pesos per dollar, falling ever since we arrived), but hadn’t a clue what it was worth. Despite the big numbers, it of course didn’t last long.
PHOTO FISH MOSAICS
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A few things we noticed right away.
First, lots of color, lots of art, lots of small things done with care, tidy. Mosaic signs, patterned sidewalks, nice street lights, decorative cutouts and gingerbread trim on buildings, and did I mention the colors?
PHOTOScooter sunset
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Sturdy houses, many of them wood, in that nice island style you can still see in places like Carriacou.
PhoTO GINGERBREAD LAUNDRY BALCONY
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Second, no guns. In Honduras every cell phone store and tortilla chip truck comes with an under-employed starch-uniformed private-security armed guard with a shotgun on his shoulder. Here it was just civilians in t-shirts and flimsy shoes.

Third, clean swept streets, trash cans, recycling bins! Later we saw the…hmmm, on Kent Island we used to call it the dump, but now it’s the Sanitary Landfill/Waste Transfer station. All the Providencia trash is sorted, into giant bags made of feed sack cloth with handles. They look like my grocery bag writ large, but are small enough to be moved by forklift or small crane. Organized trash collection has a lot to recommend it.

And finally, largely English-speaking or English/Creole.

According to Wikipedia,

the population of the Archipelago of San Andres, Providencia and Santa Catalina uses three languages (Creole, English and Spanish). English was kept in the Baptist churches for liturgy, but the coming of satellite television and growth of foreign tourism has revived the use of the English in the islands. The presence of migrants from continental Colombia and the travel of young islanders to cities like Barranquilla, Cartagena de Indias and Bogotá for superior studies, has contributed to the presence of Spanish. However, the interest in preserving the Native Creole has become a very important element for locals and Colombians in general. Island creole is very similar to the English creole spoken in the Moskito coast of Nicaragua, and the Anglophone Caribbean.Like the Bay Islands of Honduras, the English presence was historically stronger than the Hispanic.

Those Englishmen may have been ‘pirates’ – Providencia uses Henry Morgan to descrbe physical features, Morgan’s Crack is matched by Morgan’s Head on the west side, but Morgan’s gold is nowhere to be found.

Well offshore of the continent, geographically closer to Nicaragua or Honduras than to Colombia, even now Providencia still has strong ties to the Cayman Islands. The modern diaspora has also taken many Providencians to places like Tampa, FL and New Orleans LA. I was told this, but saw the evidence myself as the ship unloaded before Christmas.
PHOTO SHIP UNLOADING
Not just anyone can move here, not even just any Colombian; a permit needed for more than a six-month stay. This seems to be because the the ‘indigenous culture”, the Raizal, is protected, with other language groups, by the Colombian Constitution of 1991. That’s what Mr. Bush was talking about when he emphasized the strictness of the immigration laws and our need for an expensive tourist card. I thought he meant the likes of us boat people, but apparently we’re known to be short term and there’s other game.

Providencia has less than 20km of road circling the coast, and a population of maybe 4 or 5 thousand people. The town is about 3 square blocks in area, and then there’s another small island attached by a bridge/causeway, for pedestrians only. Nearly every one seems to own a motor scooter. It would be fun to record all the various things we saw being done on or carried by scooter, but I’m having enough fun already.
PHOTO DOUG PUSHING BIKE UP MAIN ST AFTER SHOWER
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Unlike its more thoroughly developed sister island of San Andreas, Providencia is ‘unspoilt’ by tourism. Or, rather, the tourism is at a very modest level, low and mellow. One of my friends called it a ‘rustic rock’. I love rustic! There are no highrise hotels; in fact there is barely anything that you’d associate with a ‘tourist mecca’ except the handful of yachts at anchor and some tourists at Catalina Island, FreshWater Bay and Southwest Bay, in a few small hotels.

PHOTO VIEW NE SIDE
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The main road, which encircles an old (small) volcanic plug of the type you’d see in the Marquesas, just begged to be explored on our little folding bikes. I’m happy to report that Providencia can be successfully circumnavigated in an afternoon.

This allows for a few tourist/beer stops.
PHOTO BEER STOP
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These are the local beers. For ‘imported beers’ where we’re used to seeing Heineken, St Pauli Girl, etc, here it’s Old Milwaukee, in cans.

There are a couple push-the-bike-up-the-hill hills as well. Despite them, we made it back home before dark.
PEAK STEEPLE WOMEN
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At least, after another day of binge exercise, we didn’t end up here, at the Sunshine Funeral Home.
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Previous versions of this blog post may have suffered from the operator falling asleep while waiting for things to upload. Sorry!